Tuesday, 14 June 2011

To Empress AB N50 57.375' W110 00.685

2011 06 06 Leisurely drive from Drumheller with stops at Hanna and Oyen to Empress.



My dad was one of six Lyster kids who were raised there. Empress is where my mother and I came in the cold winter of 1946 as part of the first sailing of Canadian War Brides and dependents after WWII. Then it was a bustling railway town. Now, with the tracks gone, it serves as a gathering place for farmers and petroleum workers in the vicinity. It is, perhaps one of the most isolated villages in southern Canada.

N50 57.375 W110 00.685

Most of the commercial buildings are gone. My uncle Gordon's general store, long torn down, looked like this.

Empress Hardware

You can stay at the Empress Hotel which depends on roving construction crews for survival.

The Empress Hotel

Time of the Signs: The little GPS we are carrying had a detailed map of the village, although it was confused by this intersection:

Better than the corner of Walk and Don't Walk

We said goodbye to the old family house which is to be demolished. My syblings and I are keeping the site in the family.

The Brodie-Lyster House
It has been carefully documented and may be rebuilt as a retirement home for a family member. Our cousin Denny has assembled a detailed history which does not answer the question how my grandparents raised 6 feisty kids, including Aunt Vera, in a two bedroom house (big porch, though!)

We visited Joe and Susan, together with other members of the family. How does one express the plentitude of lives pioneering the prairies? Another book perhaps.

Grampa Joe and Grandma Susan

Carolyn's tribute was one of her patented yarn bomb flowers.


Near the cemetary (Empress is so close to the border that the cemetary is in Saskatchewan) is an aviation beacon.



This beacon shows on Global Navigation Chart 2 of 24 covering the whole planet.

The social hub of Empress is an impressive reno of the old bank building, now a boutique called Empressive. I joined the folks for morning coffee (two shifts: 6:45 for the farmers and 8:30 for the retirees). This is Empress's Internet. All necessary data is exchanged in a most affable manner. And arguments such as "does the "V" on a tractor tire point up or down and if so from the front or the back and given that what if you have to back-up the tractor". This has, apparently, been an ongoing discussion with proponents and opponents and no solution in sight.

Empressive

EsDora's stay at Empress's Municipal RV Park....


was made special by our cousins Bill and Elaine who transported, washed, fed and entertained us. They even politely sympathized as the Canucks collapsed on the big screen at the pub in the Empress Hotel. Elaine is a former Municipal Administrator, so I, a lowly planner, kept snapping to attention when she spoke.

Thanks Elaine & Bill

And also for the Ginger Snaps! With severe rationing they lasted part way into Manitoba.

2011 06 12 Race across the Prairies to N49 41.019 W095 19.526
The next phase was a race across the rest of the Prarie Provinces to get back to where we left off in 2009. Our idea of a race is, drive no more than 4 hours a day, stop at random spots for food and entertainment and never pass a second hand store (not many on the Trans Canada Highway.

Briefly:

Fifteen Degrees

One twenty-fourth of the way around the planet in 4 days. Marco Polo eat our dust.

A final tribute to all we impacted on the way:

What WAS the last thing that went through my mind?....


Wednesday, 8 June 2011

Golden To Drumheller

Posts are behind. We having fun.
Politically Sincere Footbridge & Rocky Mtn Trench 
2011 05 31 Golden is the most politically correct jurisdiction in the British Commonwealth. From my official folding breakfast chair I could see solar panels on the Municipal Campground Office, a sun powered public bicycle dispenser, a walking school bus (a string of kids with parents front & back) and, later, in the john, a waterless urinal (faint of heart turn away!).
Waterless Blue Dot
The latest psychological urinal trick is a small blue dot, right where the anti-splash geometry has maximum effect. We aim to please, you aim too, please. One question. I understand one grab bar at a urinal. I don’t understand two. As necessary, the men among you will explain my perplexity to the women.

Is Golden’s greenity anything to do with the fact that everything of consequence is run by ladies? There are rough burly men about, lifting things and grunting, but every business we were in was helmed by a person of the feminine persuasion. Even the mayor is named Christina. I’m just asking.
Busman's Holiday
Stopped at the Golden Library and delivered one of my mother’s books. At the nearby municipal office, the clerks (all women) were uncertain of who was planner this week because of a round robin shake-up. When I observed that it didn’t matter who senior staff was, as an old municipal dray-horse myself, it was the counter crew that kept the whole deal going anyway, they awarded me a municipal pin.
As It Hap Pins
Previously I went from town office to city hall cadging copies of the OCP (borrowing from one document is plagiarism, stealing from many is RESEARCH!). These days Official Community Plans are all on the web and I have to conjure up another rationale for hanging around municipal facilities. Talk about old municipal dray-horse...
Local Government: the finest level of government there is. Federal, Provincial and Territorial bureaucrats don’t see the same faces day-to-day and seldom have someone grab them by the tie over the counter. I used to wear those clip-on ties....
No Parking? Shhhh...
Gordy is headed to Golden to begin patching a year-old bridge over the Kicking Horse River. Gordy is a virtuoso of concrete. His concrete pontoons make the new Kelowna floating bridge float...so far. EsDora threaded across the stricken bridge past multiple flag persons and into the really spectacular part of the Rockies. Hurry Gord!
BC to AB
Stopped at Field for lunch. Carolyn wisely knows that every drive needs a complete break and there is nothing like rustling food from nowhere and eating in contemplation of Mount Stephen to refresh the soul. My uncle Wes was a CP Engineer who sometimes let my cousin Donny steer the trains from Calgary to Field through the spiral tunnels. Lucky kid!

Field & Stream
Canada by Degrees Item: Burgess Shale. The oldest Canadians we are likely to see this trip were caught in an underwater landslide more than half a billion years ago. Flattened, even the shape of their soft body parts were preserved between slabs of shale. As a former zoological anatomist, I can tell you that some of the critters undulating under that shallow sea have body plans with no modern counterparts. Mother Nature seems to try many kinds of life. There are fresh epochs when there are explosions of variety and then long dwindling processes of species elimination. When I hear about the current rash of extinctions I wonder if we are just at some end game which will suddenly convert to a new epoch with new living circumstances that will precipitate a flood of new life forms. The trick is to be one of those surviving critters.
Cambrian Era Wood Bug; There's the Rub
The interpretive centre at Field lets you play with trilobites.
On to Canmore where our trusty GPS took us to a nice person’s driveway rather than a RV encampment. A little back tracking takes us to the municipal campground which is woefully under subscribed. Although EsDora is nimble enough to back into a space (with Carolyn waving her arms frantically as a picnic table looms in the back-up camera) I selfishly take one of the pull-throughs, down stakes and commence active slothery.
Here comes the Wapiti Hipity Hopity
2011 06 01 At Canmore:
Relocated to a site with WiFi in anticipation of tonight’s Canuck’s game.
A very pleasant walk along the Policeman Creek past the original North West Mounted Police building (cottage size, now a tea room; that’s how we Canadians settled the West!).
Carolyn shopped. As we roamed the main drag, I read from Girl with the Dragon Tattoo on nearby sidewalk benches. The only showers happened when the sun came out, so the book dried as it was watered. Lunch in the Rose & Crown pub where they assured they were serving diet Guinness. I got to shop at Second Story Used Books run by Lawrence & Heath Hutchings downstairs at 713 Main Street.

Selected items in Canmore:

Kananaskis Means "Big Head"
Policeman Creek
WiFi Hockey Lashup

2011 06 02 Through Calgary
After even a short time on the road, big cities rattle me. Manoeuvring a too wide, too long conveyance on strange streets filled with drivers who know their way rattles me. We had a gracious invitation to stay at a friend’s. The surroundings were equipped with standard parking stalls which required funding every four hours. No place to alight.
Carolyn got VVBoutique time.
Calgary has very few listed RV sites. One within walking distance of the extensive Light Rail system would have been ideal.
Ended up at Mountain View Camp N51 04.203 W113 51.826
Thoughts while dreaming
INVESTMENT: It may be that if you put some money in and get more money out that all you have done is to devalue your’s and everybody else’s money. Investment, even successful investment, needs to expand the general economy not just pass numbers around.
FRIENDS: While old friends are the best friends, friendship needs to be nurtured. In my life, with so many schools in so many provinces, so many moves to so many neighbourhoods, so many jobs and projects in so many places, enduring friendships have been hard to maintain. This trip is partially about contacting old friends and relatives. There are many dear acquaintances but we live parallel lives and (mathematically) parallels are hard to intersect.
2011 06 03 Still in Calgary
EsDora shows an engine needs attention light. In consideration of her dowagerhood, we off to Canadian Tire to have her codes read. While Carolyn gathers the little list of discovered necessities, it is determined that the transmission needs a look see. Off to Universal Ford Truck division. The young lads are most attentive, read the codes and suggest we go to lunch while an estimate is generated. The bottom line is that the transmission will need to be replaced. That’s the good news. The bad news is that securing the right tranny will take two weeks. After an earnest chat we mutually determine that the transmission will function for an indeterminate but predictably short period, that overdrive is the problem, that shifting will be “bumpy” and eventually EsDora will experience “slipping”.
The decision is: the trip continues. Budget is adjusted to include a new transmission and at some point in the future we will have a two week “vacation” from our “holiday”. Wonderful opportunity for a side trip we say with our glass half full.
Relocate to Whispering Spruce Camp in the hamlet of Balzac just north of Calgary.

2011 06 04 Whispering Spruce N51° 13.451’ W114° 00.257’
A bitterly cold misty morning. Sure wish the little furnace would do more than blow cold air.
First Light in Balzac
Dreams while thinking: Calgary is a hum of activity. Overlooking Hwy 2, an endless flow of single occupant vehicles and impossibly long B-Trains swishes by. Do all these people and goods need to get both north and south? Can’t the Calgary bound Pepsi transport do in Edmonton what the Edmonton bound Pepsi truck proposes to do? I’m not talking about all the oil being burned, just the simple economy of efficiency. This from a man lugging a small motel on his back.
Spent a glorious day with a friend from School of Architecture days. In our parallel lives we designed and caused to be built, significant bits of cities.
Dan’s city pieces are thoughtful, passionate and urbane. Shared the bumps and boones of two longish careers which began with both of us pledging to create, not “R”chitecture, but Comprehensive Life Support Systems. Too busy gawking to document, but Calgary, for all my driving trepidation, is worth a return trip. In a small, speedy car.
TO DO: Promised Dan a copy of “The World’s Largest Jellyfish” a Super 8 epic documenting our part in building the (then) largest ever inflatable structure at the current site of UBC’s Thunderbird Stadium. Some day a future archaeologist will find a mysterious, perfect circle of 360 buried tires more than an acre in span. This movie reveals all. Shelter costing 12 cents a square foot in 1971 dollars.

2011 06 06 at Drumheller N51 28.103 W112 42.929
On the way a stop at Horseshoe Canyon where the underside of the prairie is revealed.
Dark Layer is Coal, It Seams.
In Drumheller, if you sass the lady at the River Grove Campground, she rents you a site with two big trees you have to back between. Mirrors clear by six inches on a side. Carolyn outdoes herself arm waving and mouthing profanity at driver. Profanity is symetrical and can be understood in reflection it turns out.
Right Between the Two Big Trees
Drumheller is a neat town from an urban design perspective. For example:
Great Pedestrian Street
Except for...
Rain all night. In early AM, wading into the micro-sized bathroom is never a good thing. The least bad thing is because the vent, which was opened to dry laundry hanging in the shower stall, has flipped up and is letting the rain in. Will try a permanent fix when rain stops. Of course, then it won’t be leaking.
The birds greet dawn just as noisily in the pouring rain.
Yesterday afternoon had a great walk around Drumheller.
Another Brick in the Wall
Hard to avoid dinosaurs which are on every street corner. When a Prairie town themes it themes hard. This early in June, the tourist centre was hopping.

Don't Telus; A Dinosaur on Every Corner
The Red Deer River, which flows down to Empress, is extra muddy and is receding; we hope... The River Grove RV park is down by the river behind a massive dike. Spend most of night listening to rain impact EsDora’s roof and remembering newsreels of mobile homes being carried away by flood tides.
Don't Sweat Flooding, People bin campin' here for years...


Monday, 30 May 2011

T0 GOLDEN 51N 116W

The layover in Kelowna lasted a couple of days. We borrowed electricity from Gordon & Sara and played with the youngest grandson. Teenage grandaughters were busy texting.

 Solar Powered Airplane

Solar Powered Boat (floating in Mother's Roasting Pan)


Hang Glider (Trying to Score One on Poppa)

Solar Furnace (Almost Set Poppa`s Sleeve on Fire)

Great hospitality and companionship. Many thanks to Ashley who surrendered her room and to Cassi who tolerated grandparently affection and Poppa`s TCM movies.

2011 05 29 Filling our water tank with Kelowna water, we roll north east. EsDora has several idiosyncracies but manages the ups and downs of the Kootenays. Stop at Needles for a cable ferry across the Lower Arrow Lake. Take on supplies in Nakusp. Up the hill to over night at the Nakusp Hot Springs. We soak with bodies from three continents. Photographing the local swarm of hummingbirds yields indifferent results:

Nakusp Hot Springs & the Flight of the Humming Birds
N50 17.753` W117 41.158`

The kids of Nakusp had a tile making contest and left this one for me.


2011 05 30 Off to Galena Bay. EsDora 2 waits politely behind a serious long vehicle.


Our highway system has it`s own Navy.

Upper Arrow Lake: Galena Bay to Shelter Bay on Hwy 23

Letting deboarding traffic pass gives EsDora a chance to loaf along without obstructing others.

A Mission Rule is that we drive about 4 hours a day. 4 hours through the Rogers Pass finds us approaching Golden, the Civic Campsite and a spot close enough to the Office to receive WiFi. Hence this report.


EsDora by the Kicking Horse River, Golden BC
N51 17.844 W116 57.061


For those keeping track:

Friday, 27 May 2011

To KELOWNA 49N 119W

Greeted by solid rain in AM.
Looking Out Our Front Door

Must figure how to make the furnace blow hot air.

On to Bromley Rock. In the summer, a great gathering place along the Similkameen. People swimming, leaping and picnicing.
Bromley Rock N49 25.059' W120 15.152'

Today, a little misty.
Picnic Tabled

In the nearby forest, evidence of earlier civilizations?
Face in the Forest

Stop for liqourice in Keremeos, a town notable for having it's own natural logo on the nearby hill side.

Keremeos Mountain Logo N49 12.296' W119 49.371'

Unlike most travelers, we welcome stoppages. A chance to make lunch.
Waiting for the Blast N49 20.181' W119 45.425'

Onto the Kid's house in Kelowna. Sara feeds us. Event of the night is the Rutland Secondary School Dance production of "PLAY IT LOUD" starring mostly our grand-daughter and some other peoples kids.
Granddad & Dancer (with brother's help)

Here's that brother:
Grand-dad & Danger

And while trying to eat:
Grand-dad & Diner

Take heart, there are no more grandchildren to the east.

Afterwards, Gordy provides me with a bottle of Grant's Patiently Crafted Blended Scotch Whiskey, perhaps in hope that I will drift off before can I tell him about when I was his age. Food, liquor and opportunity to admire grandkids; we may lurk for days.....

Oh and here is another try at that map:
 Always remember: The map is not the territory.